The first number probably is a battery status code. Applying this, the numbers encoded in your example would be:
The "all together" flashes are probably just separators. So it appears to me (from similarities with flash codes from cars in the 1990's) that the number of flashes will indicate digits. Since there is no official documentation, we need to do a bit of reverse engineering. working fine but in use for some years already.model: Milwaukee M28 Lithium-Ion 3.0 Ah (so, not yet the new M28 REDLITHIUM series).I found nothing about them in the Milwaukee V28 battery troubleshooting guide, and there is seemingly no equivalent document for the (newer but very similar) M28 battery series. What do these battery flash codes / blink codes indicate? Here, "all" indicates one flash of all four LEDs at the same time, and a number indicates one flash of that LED (counted from left). I just tried it twice in a row, and each time the readout was as follows: all 4Īll all 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4Īll all all all 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Go get you some tools with the money you save by fixing your own car.When I press the fuel gauge button on my Milwaukee M28 battery pack for a bit longer (some seconds), the four fuel gauge LEDs start to blink out what seems to be diagnostic codes. Their hand tools are pretty good, are better than auto parts store tools and have a lifetime warranty. If you need tools go to Google Maps and type "Harbor Freight", then go there. Alternators are relatively easy to change. You can easily fix any issue with your car with the wealth of knowledge available on the net and YouTube. No need to go to an "auto-electrician", again this is overkill and worse case. These can both be done with the parts still on your car in the parking lot. If all the basics pass the test, then go to any major auto parts chain and have them run a load test on your battery in addition to a charging test on the alternator. Touch the tops with your finger and try to wiggle. If everything is clean and tight you should move on to the fuse box.Only touch the bolt you are tightening on the Positive side. Take care when using metal tools on the Positive cable, you can ground the battery out or worse. Start at the top near the battery and follow cables to other end. Then follow the cables to their respective opposite ends. Try to move the cables at the battery, they should be firmly attached. If cables and battery are clean, then you should make sure everything is tight.They sell $2 battery terminal cleaners at ever auto parts store as well.
If the cables have white dust on them, then the ends of the cables and the battery post need to be cleaned.
If it is more than 3 years old, have it tested. Check if there is a date sticker on the top of your battery.These are more than often the culprits anyways, so best to save time and money. When troubleshooting you should always start with the easiest and/or cheapest solution. A bad alternator or battery is by far worse case scenario.
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